Kyoto in 3 Days: Temples, Bamboo Groves, and the Neighborhoods Between Them

Arrive by 6-6:30am. The shrine is open 24 hours and the early morning light through the 10,000 vermillion torii gates is worth the early alarm. The full hike to the summit takes 2-3 hours, but the first 30 minutes of gates (to the Yotsutsuji intersection viewpoint) is the most photogenic section. Most visitors turn around there.

Head back to Kyoto Station after Fushimi Inari. The basement food courts (depachika) in Isetan department store open at 10am. For earlier breakfast, the Starbucks inside the station or a convenience store onigiri and coffee will hold you over.

The wooden stage jutting out from the hillside gives panoramic views of Kyoto. The surrounding streets (Sannen-zaka and Ninnen-zaka) are steep, narrow, and lined with traditional shops and tea houses. Walk these streets slowly. They are as much the attraction as the temple itself.

This walk is the single best thing to do in Kyoto. Descend through Ninnen-zaka and Sannen-zaka, pass Kodai-ji temple, walk through the stone-paved Nene-no-michi path, and continue to Yasaka Shrine and into Gion. The whole route is about 2km and every meter is worth it.

Try a matcha parfait at one of the tea houses on Ninnen-zaka, or find an udon shop on the side streets of Gion. Omen is a well-known udon restaurant near Nanzen-ji. For something quick, the yuba (tofu skin) shops along the walking route sell fresh yuba for 300-500 yen.

Walk along Hanami-koji and Shirakawa-minami-dori as the lanterns come on. This is where you might spot maiko (apprentice geisha) heading to evening appointments. Do NOT chase, touch, or block their path for photos. Gion has posted signs about this. Photography of maiko on Hanami-koji is now banned on private property sections.

Arrive before 8am. By 10am the narrow path through the bamboo is a human traffic jam. The grove itself is only about 500 meters long, but the light filtering through the stalks in the morning is unlike anything else. Take the JR Sagano Line from Kyoto Station to Saga-Arashiyama Station (15 min, 240 yen).

A UNESCO World Heritage zen temple at the south end of the bamboo grove. The garden is a 14th-century masterpiece designed by Muso Soseki, with borrowed scenery from the Arashiyama mountains behind it. The garden-only ticket is sufficient.

The iconic bridge spanning the Oi River with mountains behind it. Cross it and walk along the south bank for the best photos. In autumn the surrounding hills turn red and orange.

A 15-minute uphill hike to a park where 120 Japanese macaques roam freely. You feed them from inside a fenced shelter (they are outside, you are inside). The views of Kyoto from the top are excellent. Not worth it if you have bad knees, the path is steep.

The gold-leaf-covered pavilion reflected in the mirror pond is one of Japan's most photographed sights. It is genuinely stunning, but the visit is short because the route is one-way with no lingering allowed. Best on a clear day when the reflection is sharpest. Take bus 205 from Kyoto Station or bus 12 from Arashiyama.

The most famous zen rock garden in the world: 15 stones arranged on raked white gravel, designed so that you can never see all 15 from any single angle. Sit on the wooden platform and just look. It is a 15-minute walk from Kinkaku-ji.

Walk along Pontocho Alley, a narrow lantern-lit lane along the Kamo River packed with restaurants. Many have outdoor riverside seating (kawadoko) from May to September. For affordable Kyoto cuisine, look for obanzai restaurants serving home-style small plates. Expect to spend 1,500-2,500 yen for a good dinner.

Built in 1603 as the Kyoto residence of the Tokugawa shoguns. The Ninomaru Palace has 'nightingale floors' that chirp when you walk on them, designed as a security measure against assassins. The castle grounds are beautiful during cherry blossom season.

The former residence of the Imperial family, surrounded by the vast Kyoto Gyoen park. Free to enter and usually uncrowded. The park itself is popular with joggers and picnickers, especially under the weeping cherry trees in spring.

Five blocks of covered market stalls selling pickles, dried fish, matcha, wagashi sweets, tofu, and street snacks. Arrive before noon for the best selection. Try the dashi tamago (rolled egg omelet on a stick, 200-300 yen), grilled mochi, and fresh yuba. Do not eat while walking, it is considered rude. Stand to the side or find a bench.

Camellia Garden near Kinkaku-ji or Jotokuji Tea Room offer affordable seated tea ceremony experiences. You sit on tatami, a host prepares matcha, and you eat a wagashi sweet before drinking. Not a full chado ceremony but a genuine introduction. No reservation needed at most casual tea houses.

A 2km stone path along a canal lined with cherry trees, connecting Ginkaku-ji (Silver Pavilion) to Nanzen-ji temple area. Most people walk south from Ginkaku-ji. In cherry blossom season the canopy of pink over the water is extraordinary. In summer it is shaded and peaceful. Small cafes and craft shops line parts of the route.

One of the most important zen temples in Japan, and far less crowded than the big-name sites. The massive Sanmon gate offers panoramic views from the top. The brick aqueduct (Suirokaku) running through the grounds is an unexpected piece of Meiji-era engineering and a popular photo spot.