First Time in Mexico City: A 5-Day Neighborhood Guide to Tacos, Markets, and Museums

Get here by 9am before the crowds. The cathedral is sinking unevenly into the old lake bed, and you can see the tilt if you look at the columns.

The Aztec temple ruins sit right next to the cathedral, literally built on top of each other. The museum downstairs has the massive Coyolxauhqui stone disk. Free on Sundays for Mexican residents.

Rivera's murals depicting Mexican history cover the entire stairwell. Free entry but bring a government-issued ID. The courtyard garden is worth a lap.

Look for stands with a line of office workers at lunchtime. Tacos de canasta (basket tacos) are the Centro classic, soft tortillas steamed in a cloth-lined basket. 5 pesos each.

The art deco/art nouveau exterior is stunning but the Diego Rivera and David Alfaro Siqueiros murals inside are the real draw. Go to the top floor of the Sears across the street for a free rooftop view of the building.

Calle Madero is pedestrian-only and packed with street performers. Torre Latinoamericana's observation deck gives you a 360-degree view of the valley, best at sunset.

Panaderia Rosetta for baked goods (arrive before 9am, they sell out), or Lalo! for chilaquiles. Both are on Calle Colima.

The area between Alvaro Obregon and Orizaba has the best concentration of Porfirian-era mansions and art nouveau buildings. Many now house restaurants and galleries on the ground floor.

More expensive than street food but good for trying multiple things in one spot. The rooftop bar has craft cocktails. Skip it if you prefer authentic markets.

Parque Mexico is where the neighborhood comes alive. Dog walkers, runners, families. Walk the circular Avenida Amsterdam that rings the park, lined with restaurants and jacaranda trees.

El Vilsito is an auto mechanic shop by day that transforms into a taco stand at night. Open from 8pm. The al pastor here is legendary. Cash only. There will be a line, it moves fast.

Condesa has the sidewalk cafes, Roma has the speakeasies. Try Licoreria Limantour on Alvaro Obregon, consistently ranked among the world's best bars. Make a reservation.

Book tickets online at least 2 weeks in advance. Walk-ups are rarely available. The house itself is as interesting as the art. Her wheelchair, her bed with the mirror above it, the kitchen.

The central plaza is lined with cafes and vendors. The Mercado de Coyoacan has tostadas de tinga and fresh fruit cups. Try the esquites (corn in a cup with mayo, cheese, and chile).

Three blocks from Casa Azul. The house where Trotsky was assassinated is preserved exactly as it was, bullet holes in the walls and all. The garden is peaceful and usually empty.

El Moro has been making churros since 1935. The original is in Centro Historico but the Coyoacan location has shorter lines. Order them filled with cajeta (caramelized goat's milk).

A UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Central Library building is covered in a massive mosaic by Juan O'Gorman. The campus is massive, so focus on the Central Library and the Rectoria murals.

One of the best museums in the world, and that is not an exaggeration. The Aztec Sun Stone alone is worth the trip. Start with the Mexica (Aztec) hall, then Maya, then Oaxaca. You cannot see it all in one visit. Free on Sundays.

The only royal castle in the Americas, sitting on top of Chapultepec Hill. The views of Reforma and the city from the terrace are the best panorama in CDMX. The walk up the hill takes 15 minutes.

The park is twice the size of Central Park. On weekdays it is peaceful. On Sundays it is packed with families, vendors, and performers. Stick to the first section (Primera Seccion) where the museums and castle are.

Polanco is the upscale neighborhood. Avenida Presidente Masaryk is the luxury shopping street. For food, Quintonil and Pujol are here (book months ahead), but for something more accessible try the tacos at El Califa de Leon, which earned a Michelin star for $5 tacos.

Carlos Slim's private art collection in a striking aluminum-clad building. Free entry. The Rodin collection on the top floor rivals some European museums. The building itself is worth seeing from the outside.

Go on a weekday morning for a quieter experience. On weekends the canals are packed with party boats and mariachi bands. Negotiate the price before boarding. Bring your own beer and snacks, the floating vendors charge tourist prices.

The largest flower market in Latin America. Overwhelming in the best way. Even if you are not buying flowers, the colors and scale are worth the metro ride. Best before noon.

The gourmet market of CDMX. Exotic meats (crocodile, ant eggs, wild boar), imported cheeses, and fresh seafood. The ceviche stands are excellent. More expensive than other markets but the quality is noticeably higher.

Go to La Clandestina on Calle Alvaro Obregon for a proper tasting. They will walk you through espadin, tobala, and other agave varieties. Sip, do not shoot. The salt and orange slice tradition is for cheap tequila, not mezcal.

Terraza Cha Cha Cha on the rooftop of Hotel Downtown near the Zocalo has views of the cathedral and the Zocalo lit up at night. Arrive by 6pm for a table.