Portland in 3 Days: Food Carts, Powell's Books, and the East Side Neighborhoods That Make This City Worth the Rain

Occupies an entire city block with over a million books across three floors. The rooms are color-coded. Get a map at the entrance. The Rare Book Room on the top floor is worth seeing even if you are not buying. The coffee shop inside (World Cup Coffee) is a good starting point.

The Pearl District is former warehouse and rail yard territory, now full of galleries, boutiques, and restaurants. Tasty n Alder does excellent brunch (try the chocolate potato waffle or the steak and eggs). On First Thursday evenings, galleries open for free and the streets fill with people.

Portland's food carts are not a gimmick; they are a genuine part of the dining culture. Pods cluster 10-30 carts together. Cartlandia on SE 82nd is the largest, but for convenience try the carts on SW Alder or along Hawthorne. Expect cuisines from Thai to Ethiopian to Czech. Cash and cards both accepted at most.

The Saturday Market (open Saturdays and Sundays, March through December) is the largest continuously operating outdoor craft market in the US. Local artisans sell handmade goods, and the food stalls are excellent. Walk the waterfront south along the Willamette for views of the bridges.

SE Hawthorne between 30th and 45th has the best concentration of vintage shops, record stores, and independent boutiques in the city. House of Vintage is a massive multi-vendor space. Bagdad Theater (a McMenamins brewpub in a 1927 movie palace) is worth a peek even if you are not seeing a film. Grab coffee at Never Coffee.

SE Division between 30th and 50th is Portland's most acclaimed restaurant row. Pok Pok (the Thai restaurant that put Portland food on the national map) may be gone, but Langbaan, Ava Gene's (Italian with local produce), and Kachka (Russian) carry the strip. For something quick, Bollywood Theater does Indian street food for $12-15.

Portland has 70+ breweries within city limits. On the east side, start at Hair of the Dog (Belgian-influenced), walk to Cascade Brewing (sour beer specialists, one of the best in the country), then finish at Base Camp Brewing. Each is a 10-15 minute walk apart.

Mississippi is the east side's most concentrated bar and restaurant strip. Lovely's Fifty Fifty does wood-fired pizza with seasonal toppings. Mississippi Studios next door has live music most nights (check the calendar). The bar at Prost! specializes in German beer and has a massive outdoor patio.

NE Alberta Street is Portland's arts corridor. Murals on every other building, independent galleries, and coffee at Barista (one of the best third-wave shops in the city). The Last Thursday Art Walk (last Thursday of the month, May-September) turns the whole street into an open-air gallery with live music and food vendors. Even outside of Last Thursday, the street is worth the walk.

One of the largest urban forests in the US, with 80+ miles of trails 10 minutes from downtown. The Wildwood Trail is the main artery. For a manageable loop, start at the Lower Macleay trailhead and hike to the Witch's Castle (Stone House), an abandoned 1930s restroom reclaimed by moss and ivy. It is a 2.5-mile round trip with moderate elevation gain.

Widely considered the most authentic Japanese garden outside of Japan. The garden sits above Washington Park with views of Mount Hood on clear days. The expansion designed by Kengo Kuma (the architect behind the 2020 Tokyo Olympic stadium) is stunning. Visit on a weekday morning for the fewest crowds.

For a Portland-defining meal, try Canard (the casual sibling of the Michelin-starred Le Pigeon, wine bar with inventive small plates), Ox (Argentinian-style wood-fired meats), or Departure (Asian-fusion rooftop with skyline views). Reservations recommended for all three, especially on weekends.