Salzburg in 2 Days: Mozart, Fortress Views, and the Hills That Are Alive

Start here early, before the tour buses arrive. The formal gardens were used for the 'Do Re Mi' sequence in The Sound of Music, and they are genuinely beautiful regardless of that connection: geometric hedges, seasonal flower beds, and the Pegasus fountain framed by the fortress on the hill behind. The Marble Hall inside the palace (free entry) is considered one of the most beautiful Baroque concert rooms in Europe. Mozart performed here as a child. Walk through in 10 minutes or stay for photos. The gardens photograph best in morning light when the fortress behind is sunlit.

Cross the river via the Staatsbrucke and enter Getreidegasse, the medieval shopping street defined by its wrought-iron guild signs hanging over every shop. These signs date back centuries, when literacy was low and shopkeepers needed visual symbols. Even modern chains like McDonald's and H&M have custom wrought-iron signs here, mandated by the city. Mozart's Birthplace at Getreidegasse 9 is a three-floor museum displaying his childhood violin, family portraits, and early compositions. It is small but well-curated. Mornings before 10 AM are quietest.

Residenzplatz is the monumental heart of Salzburg, surrounded by the Residenz (the prince-archbishops' palace), the Cathedral, and the Neue Residenz with its famous Glockenspiel that chimes at 7 AM, 11 AM, and 6 PM. The Cathedral is free to enter and worth seeing for its massive Baroque interior and the baptismal font where Mozart was christened. If you have time and the Salzburg Card, the DomQuartier museum connects the Residenz state rooms, a gallery, and the cathedral organ loft via a covered walkway with views over the square.

Take the funicular up from Festungsgasse. Hohensalzburg is one of the largest fully preserved medieval fortresses in Central Europe, built starting in 1077 and expanded over five centuries. The interior includes ornate state rooms, a medieval torture exhibit, and a fortress museum, but the main draw is the panoramic view from the ramparts: the Old Town's domes and spires below, the Salzach River cutting through the valley, and the Untersberg massif filling the southern horizon. On a clear day, you can see into Bavaria. Budget at least 90 minutes inside. Walk down via the path through the Nonnberg district for a different perspective.

Cafe Tomaselli on Alter Markt has been operating since 1705, making it one of the oldest coffeehouses in Austria. It has a traditional interior with marble tables and a pastry cart wheeled to your table. Order a Melange (Viennese-style espresso with steamed milk) and a slice of cake from the cart. The outdoor terrace overlooks Alter Markt square and catches afternoon sun. It is touristy, but the quality and atmosphere justify the visit.

Stiftskeller St. Peter claims to be the oldest restaurant in Central Europe, with records dating to 803 AD. The claim is contested, but the vaulted cellar dining rooms are undeniably atmospheric, carved into the rock of the Monchsberg cliff. The food is traditional Austrian: Tafelspitz, Schnitzel, game dishes, and strudel. It is not the cheapest dinner in Salzburg, but the setting alone makes it worth one meal. Book ahead during festival season.

Walk up from the Old Town or down from the fortress path to Stift Nonnberg, the Benedictine convent where the real Maria Augusta Kutschera was a novice before becoming governess to the von Trapp children. The abbey church is open to visitors (free, respectful silence expected) and has frescoes dating to the 12th century. The exterior and courtyard are what most people recognize from the film. It is a working convent, so only the church and a small section are accessible. Go early before tour groups arrive.

If you missed it yesterday, catch the Glockenspiel at 11 AM. The 35-bell carillon in the Neue Residenz tower plays a different Mozart melody each month. Stand in the center of Residenzplatz for the best acoustics. It lasts about 5 minutes.

Take bus 25 from the Old Town (about 20 minutes). Hellbrunn was the 17th-century summer residence of the prince-archbishop Markus Sittikus, and the trick fountains (Wasserspiele) are the main event: a 40-minute guided tour through water-powered automata, hidden sprays that soak unsuspecting visitors, and a Renaissance water theater that still functions exactly as designed in 1619. You will get wet. Bring a light layer you do not mind having sprayed. The Sound of Music gazebo (the 'Sixteen Going on Seventeen' pavilion) was moved to the Hellbrunn grounds and is free to visit. The palace park is large and pleasant for a walk after the tour.

If the weather is clear, take bus 25 one stop further south to the Untersbergbahn base station. The cable car rises to 1,776 meters in about 9 minutes, offering a genuine alpine panorama: views into Bavaria, over the Salzburg valley, and toward the Berchtesgaden Alps. At the top, marked trails range from easy 30-minute loops to serious multi-hour hikes. Check the webcam at untersbergbahn.at before going. On cloudy days, you will see nothing but fog and the EUR 29 is wasted. Skip it and spend the afternoon browsing Linzergasse shops on the right bank instead.

Salzburg offers nightly classical concerts in the Mirabell Palace Marble Hall (Mozart and chamber music, tickets EUR 25 to 45). The acoustics are excellent and the setting is intimate. Alternatively, check the schedule at Salzburg Cathedral and local churches for free organ concerts, which happen regularly in summer. During the Salzburg Festival (late July to late August), outdoor screenings of festival performances are shown for free on a screen at Kapitelplatz.