First Time in Tbilisi: The $50/Day City Where Wine Is 8,000 Years Old and Dinner Comes With 15 Toasts
Everything you need to know about Georgia's capital before your first visit, from the supra feast rules to the sulfur baths to the day trips that justify the flight.
Quick answer
Plan 4-5 days in Tbilisi with a mid-range daily budget of $70-90 (including accommodation). Visit in May, June, or September for warm weather without the July-August heat. US citizens can stay visa-free for up to one year. Book sulfur bath private rooms in advance (they fill up), and learn how to eat khinkali with your hands before arriving, because using a fork at a Georgian table will get you corrected immediately.
Tbilisi does not make sense on paper. It is a city where you can eat a full dinner with wine for $12, soak in a natural sulfur bath for $3, and take a marshrutka minibus to a UNESCO site for $1. The wine culture is 8,000 years old and predates every vineyard in France by six millennia. The food is built around cheese-filled bread, soup dumplings, walnut-stuffed everything, and a fervent belief that bread is sacred. And yet almost nobody from the US or Western Europe has been here.
The city sits in a valley between the Caucasus foothills, straddling the Mtkvari River. The Old Town is a collision of carved wooden balconies, sulfur bathhouse domes, Orthodox churches, a mosque, and a synagogue all within a few blocks of each other. Uphill, the Narikala Fortress watches over everything. Across the river, modern Tbilisi has glass bridges, brutalist Soviet architecture, and wine bars that would not be out of place in Brooklyn. The contrast is constant and deliberate. Georgians are intensely proud of being ancient and modern at the same time.
What makes Tbilisi different from cheap European cities like Bucharest or Sofia is the hospitality culture. Georgians will invite you to a supra (a traditional feast) after knowing you for 20 minutes. The tamada (toastmaster) will lead 15-30 toasts covering God, peace, Georgia, ancestors, and guests. You will eat until you physically cannot, drink homemade chacha (grape brandy) that tastes like lighter fluid but somehow works, and leave feeling like you have known these people for years. This is not tourism infrastructure. This is how Georgians eat dinner.
Travel essentials
Currency
Georgian Lari (GEL)
Language
Georgian
Visa
US citizens can stay visa-free for up to 1 year. Passport must be valid for at least 3 months beyond entry date. Health/accident insurance with minimum 30,000 GEL coverage is mandatory for all visitors.
Time zone
GET (UTC+4, no daylight saving time)
Plug type
C, F · 220V, 50Hz
Tipping
Not expected but appreciated. Most restaurants do not add a service charge. Rounding up the bill or leaving 10% for good service is generous. Taxi drivers do not expect tips. At sulfur baths, tip the kisi scrubber 10-20 GEL in cash.
Tap water
Safe to drink
Driving side
right
Emergency #
112
Best time to visit Tbilisi
Recommended
May, June, and September through early October
Peak season
July and August (hottest weather, up to 40°C/104°F, highest prices, most crowded mountain trails)
Budget season
November through February (cold but atmospheric, lowest prices, fewest tourists, ideal for sulfur baths and indoor wine culture)
Avoid
Mid-July through mid-August
Temperatures regularly hit 35-40°C (95-104°F) with little shade in the Old Town. Walking becomes uncomfortable by midday. Hotel prices peak and mountain trails are at maximum capacity.
Continental climate with hot, dry summers and cold winters. Spring and fall deliver warm days (18-27°C), clear skies, and the best conditions for walking the city and taking day trips. Summer heat can be intense in July-August.
Spring
moderate crowdsMarch to May · 54-73°F highs, 36-53°F lows (12-23°C highs, 2-12°C lows)
March is unpredictable and windy. April warms steadily with occasional rain. May is the rainiest month but also one of the most pleasant, with blossoms throughout the city and comfortable temperatures. Layers are essential in early spring.
- Orthodox Easter (April, dates vary): The most important Georgian holiday. Midnight services at churches across the city, followed by family feasts
- Independence Day (May 26): Parades on Rustaveli Avenue, concerts, and celebrations citywide
- Zero Compromise Natural Wine Festival (May): International natural wine tasting event drawing winemakers from across Georgia and Europe
Summer
peak crowdsJune to August · 81-87°F highs, 61-67°F lows (27-31°C highs, 16-20°C lows)
Hot and dry. July is the hottest month with highs reaching 31°C (87°F) on average and spikes to 40°C (104°F). August has the clearest skies (91% clear days). Rain is minimal. The only season when high-altitude regions like Svaneti and Tusheti are fully accessible.
- Tbilisi Open Air Music Festival (June): Electronic and alternative music festival in the Lisi Wonderland park
- ArtGene Festival of Georgian Culture (July to August): Traditional arts, crafts, and performances at the Tbilisi Open Air Museum of Ethnography
- Grape harvest season begins (late August): Kakheti wineries start the rtveli (harvest)
Fall
moderate crowdsSeptember to November · 53-77°F highs, 38-59°F lows (12-25°C highs, 3-15°C lows)
September is warm and clear, one of the best months to visit. October cools to comfortable walking temperatures with beautiful fall foliage. November gets cold quickly. The grape harvest in Kakheti makes September and October the best time for wine tourism.
- Tbilisoba (early October): The city's biggest festival celebrating Tbilisi's founding. Concerts, street food, wine, traditional performances across Old Town and Rike Park
- Rtveli grape harvest (September to October): Family-run wineries across Kakheti welcome visitors to help harvest grapes, stomp them, and feast
- Tbilisi International Film Festival (November): Screenings and events across the city
Winter
low crowdsDecember to February · 39-46°F highs, 28-31°F lows (4-8°C highs, -2 to -1°C lows)
Cold and overcast with occasional snow. January is the coldest month. Tbilisi itself rarely gets heavy snowfall, but the surrounding mountains are fully covered. This is the ideal season for sulfur baths, cozy wine bars, and indoor cultural experiences. A warm coat is essential.
- Georgian Christmas and Alilo procession (January 7): Orthodox Christmas with a beautiful public procession through the streets
- Old New Year (January 14): A second New Year celebration following the Julian calendar, with feasts and fireworks
- Gudauri ski season (December to March): Georgia's premier ski resort is 1.5 hours from Tbilisi with lift passes under $20/day
Getting around Tbilisi
Tbilisi is a walking city at its core. The Old Town, Sololaki, and the riverfront are all connected and best explored on foot. The metro has two lines that connect the main districts efficiently for 1 GEL ($0.37) per ride. For anything else, the Bolt app (Georgia's Uber equivalent) is cheap and reliable, with most city rides costing $2-6. The airport is 22 km from the center, reachable by bus for $0.37 or taxi for $10-17. Outside the city, marshrutka minibuses are the main intercity transport and cost almost nothing.
Walking
The best way to experience Old Town, Sololaki, Vera, and the riverfront. Tbilisi is hilly, so expect stairs and inclines. The cable car from Rike Park to Narikala Fortress saves a steep climb (2 GEL). Most tourist sights are within 30 minutes of each other on foot.
Tbilisi sidewalks are uneven and sometimes nonexistent. Comfortable shoes with good grip are essential, not optional. Drivers do not reliably stop for pedestrians at crosswalks.
Metro
Two lines, 23 stations, running 6 AM to midnight. Covers the main districts: Rustaveli (city center), Avlabari (Old Town access), Marjanishvili (Chugureti), and Didube (intercity bus station). 1 GEL per ride with free bus transfers within 90 minutes. Buy a MetroMoney card at any station for 2 GEL.
You can tap an international contactless card at metro gates for about 1.50 GEL per ride, skipping the MetroMoney card entirely.
Bolt (Taxi App)
The primary ride-hailing app. Transparent pricing, GPS-tracked routes, and cashless payment. Short rides within the center cost 5-10 GEL ($2-4). Cross-city trips rarely exceed 15 GEL ($6). Yandex Go also works.
Never accept rides from unofficial taxi drivers, especially at the airport or bus stations. The markup can be 3-5x the Bolt price.
Airport Bus (Route 337)
Runs from Tbilisi International Airport through Freedom Square and Rustaveli Avenue to the Central Railway Station. Costs 1 GEL ($0.37). Runs every 15-20 minutes. Takes about 1 hour 15 minutes depending on traffic.
For groups of 1-2 on a tight budget, this is unbeatable. For groups of 3+ or arrivals after midnight, a Bolt taxi (30-50 GEL total, split between passengers) is faster and barely more expensive per person.
Marshrutka (Minibus)
The backbone of intercity transport. Small minibuses that depart when full from Didube Station (north destinations: Mtskheta, Kazbegi) or Ortachala Station (east/south: Kakheti, Batumi). Cash only. No fixed schedules. Mtskheta is 3 GEL ($1.10), Kazbegi is 15 GEL ($5.60).
Sit near the front to avoid motion sickness on mountain roads. Georgian drivers are aggressive. The ride to Kazbegi along the Georgian Military Highway is spectacular but not for nervous passengers.
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Try PackSmart Free4-day Tbilisi itinerary
Old Town, Narikala Fortress, and Sulfur Baths
Ancient walls, thermal springs, and the city that predates most of Europe
- Cable car from Rike Park to Narikala Fortress 1.5 hours (including fortress exploration) · 2 GEL ($0.75) each way · in Kala (Old Town)
Take the cable car up and walk down through the botanical garden (5 GEL entry) or directly into Old Town. The fortress is a 4th-century ruin with panoramic views of the entire city. Free to enter. Go early before the heat builds.
- Walk through Old Town: Sioni Cathedral, Shardeni Street, Gabriadze Clock Tower 2 hours · Free · in Kala (Old Town)
The Gabriadze puppet theater clock tower performs a small show on the hour. Shardeni Street is the main cafe strip. Sioni Cathedral is free but requires covered shoulders and knees. Watch for the 12 PM bells.
- Lunch at a khinkali restaurant 1 hour · 15-25 GEL ($6-9) for 8-10 khinkali and a beer · in Kala (Old Town)
Order at least 8 khinkali (they come individually, 1.50-3 GEL each). Hold the dumpling by the top knot, bite a small hole in the side, sip the hot broth, then eat. Leave the doughy knob on your plate. Using a fork will get you corrected.
- Sulfur baths in Abanotubani 1.5-2 hours · Public bath: 5-10 GEL ($2-4). Private room: 65-150 GEL ($24-55) per hour. Kisi scrub: 10-20 GEL extra · in Abanotubani
Book a private room in advance if visiting on a weekend. The water is naturally 38-40°C (100-104°F) and smells strongly of sulfur. Request the kisi scrub (a vigorous exfoliation with a rough cloth) and tip the scrubber 10-20 GEL in cash. Public baths are gender-segregated.
- Evening wine tasting in Sololaki or Vera 2 hours · 20-40 GEL ($7-15) for a tasting flight or glasses · in Sololaki
Try amber/orange wine, which is white wine fermented with the skins in clay qvevri vessels for 5-6 months. This is Georgia's signature style and it tastes nothing like any white wine you have had before. Saperavi (red) and Rkatsiteli (white) are the two essential grapes.
Mtskheta Day Trip and Dezerter Bazaar
Georgia's spiritual heart and the market where Tbilisi actually shops
- Marshrutka to Mtskheta (Georgia's ancient capital) Half day (3-4 hours total) · 3 GEL ($1.10) each way by marshrutka from Didube Station, or 50 GEL ($18) round trip by taxi · in Mtskheta
Visit Jvari Monastery first (6th century, on a hilltop overlooking the confluence of two rivers). Then descend to Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, the spiritual center of Georgian Orthodoxy. Both are free. Taxis are the only way to reach Jvari (it is not on the marshrutka route). Dress modestly for both: shoulders and knees covered, women should cover their heads.
- Late lunch back in Tbilisi 1 hour · 15-30 GEL ($6-11) · in Chugureti
Try lobio (spiced bean stew) served in a clay pot with mchadi (cornbread). This is a Georgian staple that costs almost nothing and fills you completely. Pair it with a glass of house wine for 5 GEL.
- Dezerter Bazaar 1 hour · Free to browse. Churchkhela: 2-3 GEL each. Spices, walnuts, dried fruit: 5-15 GEL · in Chugureti
This sprawling outdoor market near the train station is where locals buy produce, spices, churchkhela (walnut strings dipped in grape juice, Georgia's 'Snickers bar'), homemade cheese, and pickles. Prices here are a fraction of tourist shops. Sample before you buy and bargain gently.
- Fabrika evening 2-3 hours · 10-25 GEL ($4-9) for drinks · in Chugureti
A converted Soviet sewing factory turned hostel, coworking space, and bar complex. The courtyard fills up after 8 PM with a mix of locals, digital nomads, and travelers. Multiple bars and food stalls inside. This is the social hub of Tbilisi's younger scene.
Rustaveli Avenue, Modern Tbilisi, and a Supra
The grand boulevard, Soviet and modern architecture, and the feast you will never forget
- Walk Rustaveli Avenue 1.5 hours · Free (National Gallery: 10 GEL/$4 if you enter) · in Rustaveli
Tbilisi's main boulevard runs from Freedom Square to the Parliament building. Key stops: Georgian National Museum (15 GEL, worth it for the gold artifacts), the Opera House, and the Parliament building. This is also the best coffee strip in the city, with cafes every few meters.
- Bridge of Peace and Rike Park 45 minutes · Free · in Rike
The glass pedestrian bridge by Italian architect Michele De Lucchi connects Old Town to Rike Park. Walk across for photos. The park has free WiFi and river views. The tubular concert hall and presidential palace are nearby landmarks of Saakashvili-era modern architecture.
- Lunch in Vera neighborhood 1 hour · 20-35 GEL ($7-13) · in Vera
Vera is the food-and-wine neighborhood. Try an Adjarian khachapuri (boat-shaped cheese bread with a raw egg and butter melted into the center). Tear the bread crust and dip it into the molten center. Do not cut it with a knife.
- Afternoon: Georgian National Museum or wine bar hopping 2-3 hours · Museum: 15 GEL ($6). Wine bars: 15-30 GEL ($6-11) · in Vera
The museum's gold exhibit and medieval treasury are excellent. If you prefer wine, spend the afternoon in Vera's wine bars sampling qvevri wines. A glass of house wine is 5 GEL ($2) almost everywhere.
- Evening supra (traditional feast) 3+ hours · 40-80 GEL ($15-30) at a restaurant, or free if invited to a home · in Kala (Old Town)
If you have not been invited to a private supra, several restaurants offer the experience. The tamada (toastmaster) will lead toasts. Never drink before a toast is raised. The third toast honors deceased loved ones, so stand and be respectful. Toast only with wine or spirits, never beer (reserved for enemies in Georgian tradition). You will eat far more than you thought possible.
Kazbegi Day Trip: Georgian Military Highway
One of the most dramatic mountain roads on the planet and a church in the clouds
- Marshrutka or private driver to Kazbegi (Stepantsminda) Full day (leave by 8 AM, return by 7-8 PM) · Marshrutka: 15 GEL ($5.60) each way from Didube Station. Private driver: 150-200 GEL ($55-75) for the full day (split between 2-4 people). Group tour: 95-120 GEL ($35-45) per person · in Kazbegi
The Georgian Military Highway is one of the world's great road trips. Stops along the way: Ananuri Fortress (free, overlooking a turquoise reservoir), the Russia-Georgia Friendship Monument (a colorful Soviet-era mosaic viewpoint), and the Jvari Pass at 2,379m. A private driver lets you stop wherever you want. The marshrutka does not stop.
- Hike to Gergeti Trinity Church 2-3 hours round trip · Free (or 80-100 GEL for a 4x4 ride up if you skip the hike) · in Kazbegi
The 14th-century church sits at 2,170m on a hilltop with Mount Kazbek (5,047m) as a backdrop. The hike up takes about 1 hour on a moderate trail. On clear days, the view is one of the most photographed in the Caucasus. Check the weather forecast: clouds roll in fast and can obscure the mountain entirely. Morning is usually clearest.
- Lunch in Stepantsminda 1 hour · 15-25 GEL ($6-9) · in Kazbegi
The town has several simple restaurants serving khinkali, grilled meat, and bean stew. Portions are large and prices are even lower than Tbilisi. Try mtsvadi (Georgian grilled pork skewers) with tkemali (sour plum sauce).
- Return to Tbilisi and farewell dinner 3 hours drive + 1.5 hours dinner · Dinner: 30-50 GEL ($11-18) · in Sololaki
You will be exhausted. Pick a restaurant in Sololaki or Old Town for a final khachapuri and glass of Saperavi. The drive back passes through the Jvari Pass at sunset if you time it right.
How much does Tbilisi cost?
Budget
$40
per day
Mid-range
$80
per day
Luxury
$200
per day
Tbilisi is one of the cheapest capitals in Europe, and the value is genuine, not the result of low quality. A restaurant meal that would cost $40 in Paris costs $10 here and is often better. The reason is straightforward: Georgia's economy runs on the lari, which sits at roughly 2.70 to the dollar, and local wages keep prices anchored. Wine is grown domestically (Georgia is the oldest wine-producing country on Earth), so a glass of excellent house wine costs 5 GEL ($2). Bread and cheese are cultural staples, not luxuries, so khachapuri is priced accordingly. The only things that approach Western prices are imported goods, international hotel chains, and craft cocktails at trendy bars. Budget travelers who eat at local restaurants, take marshrutkas, and stay in guesthouses can spend $35-50 per day comfortably, including accommodation.
| Category | Budget | Mid-range | Luxury |
|---|---|---|---|
| Accommodation Hostel dorm (budget), guesthouse or 3-star hotel in Sololaki (mid-range), boutique hotel in Old Town (luxury). Airbnb entire apartments average $65-100 in central neighborhoods. | $8-15 | $30-75 | $130-200 |
| Food Khinkali: $0.50-1 each (eat 8-10 per sitting). Khachapuri: $4-7. Full mid-range dinner with wine: $10-15 per person. Street bakery snacks: $1-3. Wine by the glass: $2 everywhere. | $10-15 | $20-35 | $50-80 |
| Transport Metro/bus: $0.37 per ride. Bolt taxi across town: $2-6. Airport bus: $0.37. Airport taxi: $10-17. The city center is very walkable. | $1-3 | $4-8 | $15-30 |
| Activities Sulfur bath public entry: $2-4. Private room: $24-55/hour. Museums: $2-7. Cable car: $0.75 each way. Day trip to Mtskheta by marshrutka: $2.20 round trip. | $3-8 | $15-30 | $40-75 |
| Drinks House wine: $2/glass. Beer: $2-4. Cappuccino: $3-4. Craft cocktail: $7-9. Chacha (grape brandy): often free at the end of a meal. | $3-5 | $6-10 | $15-25 |
| SIM / Data Magti SIM + data: 15 GEL ($6). eSIM via Airalo works for short trips. WiFi is reliable at most cafes and hotels. | $6 | $6 | $6 |
Where to stay in Tbilisi
Sololaki
artsy bohemianJust uphill from Old Town, starting at Freedom Square. The neighborhood is full of restored 19th-century Art Nouveau mansions with ornate staircases, marble entrances, and decorative balconies built by wealthy merchants. Named one of Time Out's 50 coolest neighborhoods in the world. Boutique hotels, specialty coffee shops, and trendy restaurants line the narrow streets without feeling touristy. Walking distance to everything but without the cruise-group density of Old Town. The vibe is hip, beautiful, and livable.
Kala (Old Town)
historic old townThe historic heart of Tbilisi with a Silk Road marketplace atmosphere. Narrow cobblestone streets, colorful wooden balconies, Persian-style sulfur bathhouse domes, and an impossible diversity of religious sites: Georgian Orthodox churches, a mosque, and a synagogue all within a few blocks. Home to Narikala Fortress, the sulfur baths, and the Gabriadze puppet theater clock tower. Atmospheric and dense. The most tourist-heavy area but quieter in early morning and at night.
Vera
foodie cultureA green, trendy neighborhood west of Rustaveli Avenue. Cafe after cafe, wine bar after wine bar, with boutique shops and artisanal bakeries mixed in between. Home to Wine Factory N1 and several of Tbilisi's best restaurants. Quieter than Sololaki but still central (5-10 minute walk to Rustaveli metro). Feels upscale without being exclusive. The vibe is food-focused, unhurried, and walkable.
Chugureti (Marjanishvili)
hipster creativeThe creative, bohemian quarter. Home to Fabrika, a converted Soviet sewing factory turned hostel, coworking space, and bar complex that functions as the social hub of Tbilisi's younger scene. Agmashenebeli Avenue has a strong Turkish and Arabic architectural influence. The Dezerter Bazaar is here, offering a chaotic, authentic produce market experience. Street art is everywhere. The vibe is edgy, artistic, and youthful.
Avlabari
local residentialTraditionally Tbilisi's Armenian quarter, sitting elevated above the river. Centered around the massive Holy Trinity Cathedral (Sameba), the largest religious building in the South Caucasus. Mostly private houses, small guesthouses, and a park. More local feel with fewer tourists and lower prices. The views from up here are excellent. Feels quiet, residential, and authentic. Metro access makes it practical despite being slightly removed from the Old Town core.
Tbilisi tips locals wish tourists knew
- 1 The supra (traditional feast) follows a strict structure. A tamada (toastmaster) leads 15-30+ toasts on specific themes: God, peace, Georgia, ancestors, children, women, guests. Never drink before the toast is raised. The third toast always honors deceased loved ones, so stand and be quiet. Drain your glass completely after each toast.
- 2 Toast only with wine or spirits, never beer. Georgians believe toasting with beer is reserved for enemies. If someone raises a toast and you are holding a beer, set it down and pick up your wine glass.
- 3 Khinkali (dumplings) have a strict eating protocol. Hold the dumpling by the top knot, bite a small hole in the side, sip the hot broth inside, then eat the rest. Use only your hands. The doughy knob on top is traditionally left on the plate uneaten. Using a knife and fork will get you corrected by everyone at the table.
- 4 Bread is sacred in Georgia. Tear it by hand rather than cutting with a knife. Throwing bread away is considered spiritually wrong. Georgian bread (shotis puri, baked in a cylindrical clay oven called a tone) is a cultural symbol, not just food.
- 5 Whistling indoors is believed to blow money away. Georgians take this superstition seriously. Do not whistle inside homes, shops, or restaurants. You will get looks.
- 6 Church dress codes are strictly enforced. Women must cover head, shoulders, and knees. Some conservative churches require women to wear a long skirt, not pants. Men must remove hats and cover shoulders and knees. Most churches provide loaner scarves and wrap-skirts at the entrance. Never photograph priests or active services.
- 7 Tbilisi is late to rise. Most businesses do not open until 10 AM and finding breakfast before 11 AM is genuinely difficult. Stock up from a bakery the night before, or plan your mornings around the few cafes that open by 9 AM in Sololaki and Vera.
- 8 Georgians will ask your age, marital status, and whether you have children within 10 minutes of meeting you. This is caring, not intrusive. Answer warmly. However, asking about money or income is considered rude.
- 9 Flowers must always be given in odd numbers. Even-numbered bouquets are reserved for funerals. Yellow flowers suggest separation. If you bring flowers as a gift, always present an odd count.
- 10 Step over doorstep thresholds, not on them. Stepping on a threshold is believed to bring bad energy into the house. This applies to homes, churches, and traditional restaurants.
Frequently asked questions
Is Tbilisi safe for solo travelers?
How cheap is Tbilisi compared to Western Europe?
Do I need a visa for Georgia as a US citizen?
What is the best time to visit Tbilisi?
Do I need to speak Georgian?
What food should I try first in Tbilisi?
Is the tap water safe in Tbilisi?
Related destinations
Sources
Facts, costs, and travel details in this guide were verified against the following sources.
- Wander-Lush: Georgia travel budget breakdown with 2026 prices accessed 2026-04-23
- Wander-Lush: 8 best Tbilisi neighborhoods with map and accommodation guide accessed 2026-04-23
- Wander-Lush: Georgia country travel tips for first-time visitors accessed 2026-04-23
- Wander-Lush: Tbilisi sulfur baths guide and review accessed 2026-04-23
- Red Fedora Diary: 36 Tbilisi travel tips from a local Georgian accessed 2026-04-23
- The Georgian Guide: Georgian culture and etiquette for visitors accessed 2026-04-23
- WeatherSpark: Tbilisi year-round weather averages and climate data accessed 2026-04-23
- Laptops and Landscapes: food prices and cost of eating in Georgia accessed 2026-04-23
- Grape Revival: the qvevri wine tradition and 8,000-year winemaking history accessed 2026-04-23
- Georgian Travel Guide: tap water safety in Tbilisi accessed 2026-04-23
- World Standards: Georgia electrical plug types, voltage, and frequency accessed 2026-04-23
- 112.gov.ge: Georgia emergency services FAQ accessed 2026-04-23
- The World Was Here First: Tbilisi to Kazbegi day trip logistics accessed 2026-04-23
- Tatonka Blog: dos and don'ts for travelers in Georgia accessed 2026-04-23
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